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Bay town on the gulf

Prachuap Khiri Khan

A working fishing town wrapped around a crescent bay, with a monkey-topped temple hill, fishing boats on the sand, and almost no foreign crowds.

The crescent bay and headlands at Prachuap Khiri Khan
The crescent bay and headlands at Prachuap Khiri Khan
Belle
Thai American who travels to Thailand every other year
Worth the extra hours

Further Than Hua Hin, Better for It

Most first-timers stop at Hua Hin and turn around. Carry on another 90 km (55 mi) down the coast and you reach a small provincial capital where the bay is prettier, the seafood is cheaper, and the town still belongs to the people who live in it. Two nights is the sweet spot.

From Bangkok

Distance from Bangkok

By roadAbout 4 hours, roughly 290 km (180 mi) south
By trainDirect on the southern line, about 4 to 5.5 hours
Getting aroundRent a bicycle or motorbike; the bay road is flat and easy

This is the narrowest stretch of Thailand: a little over 10 km (6 mi) from the gulf to the Myanmar border, and about 20 km (12 mi) by road to the crossing at Dan Singkhon.

Nobody else here

A town, not a resort

There is no strip of foreign bars and no beach club. Evenings here are families out on the promenade and seafood tables spilling onto the sidewalk.

What you eat

Seafood off the boats

The seafront is a row of inexpensive seafood restaurants and stalls, close enough to the pier that dinner and the boat that caught it are a few hundred yards apart.

A useful base

A stop on the way south

It breaks the long haul to the islands, and Khao Sam Roi Yot National Park is an hour back up the coast.

Off the beaten path

Further Afield

Give it a second day and the province opens up: a border market, a royal science park, two of the quietest beaches on this coast, and a waterfall in the hills behind them.

Image to come
Daily, best on Saturday

Dan Singkhon border market

About 20 km (12 mi) west at the Myanmar border, roughly half an hour by motorbike. Stalls sell Burmese hardwood furniture, orchids and plants. It trades daily, but Saturday morning is when the fresh market fills up.

Image to come
A royal detour

Waghor and the science park

King Mongkut calculated a total solar eclipse two years in advance and came to the beach at Waghor, 10 km (6 mi) south of town, to watch it on August 18, 1868. The site is now the King Mongkut Memorial Park of Science and Technology, with an astronomy hall and the Waghor aquarium.

Bang Saphan Yai quiet beach and fishing boats
South of Ban Krut

Ban Krut & Bang Saphan

Two quiet beach districts heading south. Ban Krut, about 70 km (45 mi) down, is backed by palms and casuarinas with Wat Thang Sai’s golden chedi on the headland above; Bang Saphan, the next district on, is quieter again and the base for snorkeling boats out to Koh Talu, the last stretch before Chumphon.

Image to come
Inland, 35 km (22 mi) south

Huai Yang waterfall

A seven-tier waterfall with bathing pools, in a forest park on the Myanmar border ridge. Signposted 29 km (18 mi) down Highway 4, then 7 km (4 mi) inland. No public transport, so you need your own wheels.

Before you go

Official & Useful Links

Train times change with the seasonal schedule, and access to Ao Manao depends on Wing 5 being open to visitors. Check both before you build a day around them.

Up the coast Hua Hin
Keep going

More First-Timer Guides

Photo credits

Photographs on this page that are not mine are used under the licenses below and hosted on this site rather than hotlinked. Uncredited photographs are my own.